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HISTORICAL MINIATURES BY GEORGE GRASSE |
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ARMSTRONG-WHITWORTH FK.8, RFC 1918
by George Grasse
COPPER STATE 1:48 SCALE PLASTIC INJECTION MULTI-MEDIA KIT CS1030 OF THE RFC ARMSTRONG-WHITWORTH FK.8 (Mid Production Model) |
COPPER STATE CS1030 BOX ART
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ARMSTRONG-WHITWORTH AK-8 THREE-VIEW DRAWING
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This 3-view drawing is credited to J. D. Carrick or F. Yeoman and appeared in Reconnaissance & Bomber Aircraft of the 1914-1918 War compiled by W. M. Lamberton and published by Harleyford Publications Limited. This popular British RFC/RAF corps reconnaissance aircraft was out-produced by the RE.8 and served in only five squadrons on the Western Front 1917-1918: Nos. 2, 8, 10, 35, and 82. |
THE
MODEL TO BE BUILT
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Armstrong Whitworth FK.8 Serial C.3549, white '8'
of N0.
35 Squadron, Royal Flying Corps, Western Front, December
1917. This aircraft is from contract #
A. S. 3390, dated 13 September 1917 for 200 aircraft built
by Angus Sanderson, serial range C.3507 to C.3706. The
entire contract was eventually completed by 13 March 1918.
Beginning in March 1917, No. 35 Squadron was assigned as the reconnaissance squadron to the British cavalry corps. The British high command believed that their major ground offensives would lead to the elusive "breakthrough" and the cavalry crops was the only armed force with speed that could exploit it and lead to "open warfare" that would, in turn, defeat "trench warfare". No. 35 Squadron was relieved of this assignment on 1 July 1917 and replaced by No. 8 Squadron also flying FK.8s. The new assignment maintained the squadron's role as a corps reconnaissance squadron initially with 7th Wing, 4th Brigade RFC attached to the British 4th Army. Subsequent assignments were many depending on the need and locale for corps aircraft. These assignments were:
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CONSTRUCTION PHOTO No. 1
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GETTING STARTED: Here are a few of the initial sub-assemblies for model. Thought not overly complicated, the most involved sub-assembly is the pilot's cockpit, twelve parts, both plastic and PE. The fuel tank comes in two halves, upper and lower. When attaching the small PE end piece (not shown) observe its location: there are two lugs as shown in the photo for mounting to the cockpit floor. Note that the forward lug is longer to account for the slope of the fuselage floor at the forward position of the fuel tank. The PE piece fits on the rear end (or end with the smaller lug). |
CONSTRUCTION PHOTO No.
2
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MOSTLY FRONT COCKPIT: The pilot's cockpit was the most detailed sub-assembly including Vickers machine gun, .30 cal. ammunition box, rudder bar, control stick components, and seat. The main fuel tank was a simpler sub-assembly painted medium gray. The PE floorboard for the rear cockpit simply dropped into place. I added .005 MFT wires to the cockpit sides where they would be seen. Paints used were: wood components Vallejo 929 Light Wood, interior fabric Vallejo 917 Beige, some metal components Vallejo 991 Dark Sea Gray, other metal components a mix of semi-gloss black with a touch of Vallejo 867 Natural Steel, pilot's seat cushion Vallejo 818 red leather stained with Andrea (old) 48 Dark Leather. |
CONSTRUCTION PHOTO No.
3
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FUSELAGE DECKING: After completing and gluing the several cockpit sub-assemblies in place, the fuselage front cockpit and rear decking pieces were glued and held in place with rubber bands overnight. If you take a look at the box art, you will note "Premium Edition" which means that there are a lot of teeny weenie PE parts that fit over existing plastic parts. To me, these details could have been incorporated in the molding of the plastic parts and save a step. On some of these PE parts, they were better left off. |
CONSTRUCTION PHOTO No.
4
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LOWER WINGS AND HORIZONTAL TAIL: The lower wing halves fit nicely into the fuselage except that each wing had to be held in place with a clamp and allowed to dry overnight. Reason: the rear lug on each wing would not seat even after trimming and shortening. The horizontal tail plane plopped right on top of the fuselage tail. There wasn't much need for adjustment of either the wings or tail piece - alignment looked quite good. |
CONSTRUCTION PHOTO No.
5
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GRADUAL PROGRESS: I haven't followed the kit's instruction manual to the 'T'. Often, the manual wants you to add parts (especially teeny weenie PE parts) that just end up getting in the way for the moment and end up falling off from handling the model. I have a sheet that identifies parts and pages that I will have to revisit as I progress. This view shows the building up of the engine compartment and the start of the landing gear. I'm a little concerned about the landing gear and will probably replace some of the kit's parts with brass tube and rod components for strength. I am having the usual trouble of getting PE parts, especially the larger panels, to adhere to the plastic even with super glue. |
CONSTRUCTION PHOTO No.
6
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LANDING GEAR: As fragile as the landing gear looks, I decided to use the kit parts exclusively. Although it appears complicated, the landing gear went together fairly easily. Note the smaller inverted "V" struts at the rear. This is one part but I accidentally cut it from the sprue causing the two struts to separate but subsequent gluing went well. The wheels are not glued on at this stage. The axle projections are quite thin. |
CONSTRUCTION PHOTO No.
7
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ENGINE COVERS AND TAIL SKID:
The remaining PE engine covers were installed but not the
obvious nose piece which is also PE and requires several
bends and contortions to fit. The kit comes with two
spare PE front pieces and I found out why. The first
one (of the three) fell apart while trying to get the bend
correct. That is, the side pieces became detached.
Maybe in the future I'll get it right. The tail skid was horribly weak and would never have withstood even a static display for very long. The part that actually is inserted into the rear of fuselage was a length of brass rod. The skid itself was discarded. It was too thin to take a drilled out hole for the brass rod. I retrieved a wider piece of plastic from spares, shaped it, and drilled out a hole. The only kit part used was the frail forked support part that now has no function. |
ABOUT PAINTING:
You will notice in Photo 7 above that the fin and landing
gear struts are painted. I have in my paint collection
a couple of "PC-10" colors: Misterkit BC-03 and Polly
S 5032 Brown Drab PC-10. I tried out both: one
the fin and the other on the horizontal tail surfaces.
I didn't like either. The Misterkit color seemed too
gray-green and the Polly S color seemed too olive green.
I've not used Polly S colors often enough but I did like the
consistency. So, I added about 20% by volume of
Vallejo 983 Flat Earth and got the shade I wanted.
More on the upper surface "PC-10" later. I also have Polly S 5029 Doped Linen which I applied to the undersurface of the bottom wing and horizontal tail but just one coat for now. More on that later, also. |
CONSTRUCTION PHOTO No.
8
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WORK RESUMED
- THE NOSE PIECE:
The time-lapse between this photo and the previous one (#7)
has been several months. I stopped work because of
great difficulties with the PE nose piece. Having
broken up the first original PE piece, I had two more to
work with in the kit. I decided that the center part
had to be contoured without impacting movement on the side
pieces because metal fatigue caused the original to break
apart. To solve this problem, carefully bend all of the small "ears" on the side pieces to their 90 degree position where they can be glued to the central piece after shaping. Carefully contour the central piece to the rough shape it has to assume on the nose. Now, bend the side pieces inward to match up with the central piece. It won't exactly match unless you're lucky. Carefully make bending adjustments to the central piece so that all three pieces come together. Avoid causing any bend to the side pieces so as to prevent metal fatigue. At this point, the sides and central piece are in alignment and the small "ears" are flush with the central piece on the inside ready to be glued with gap-filling super glue. First, I tacked down the sides to the central piece as shown above. Apply super glue to the "ears" away from the clips. You can come back and glue the outer "ears" after the glue sets. Allow plenty of time for the glue to set. Remove the clips and apply glue to all of the "ears" not previously glued. Allow them to dry. I put the clips back on and generously filled the gaps especially where "ears" are not present. In the end, it will be time to try and fit the completed nose piece to the front of the fuselage. |