|
HISTORICAL MINIATURES BY GEORGE GRASSE |
|
SOPWITH 7F.1 'SNIPE' of No. 4 Squadron AFC 1918
by George Grasse
BLUE MAX 1:48 SCALE PLASTIC KIT BX0113 OF THE RAF SOPWITH 7F.1 'SNIPE' 1918 |
BLUE MAX BX0113 BOX ART
|
SOPWITH 7F.1 'SNIPE' THREE-VIEW DRAWING
|
|
This 3-view drawing is credited to J. D. Carrick or F. Yeoman and appeared in Aircraft of the 1914-1918 War compiled by W. M. Lamberton and published by Harleyford Publications Limited (page 38). This three view shows the early 'Snipe' that equipped just four squadrons by war's end: RAF Nos. 43, 70, and 208; and No. 4 Squadron Australian Flying Corps (AFC). Post-war, a revised 'Snipe' served well into the 1920s equipping no less than eleven squadrons but with a slightly different wing and tail unit configuration as denoted by dashed aileron lines and revised rudder on the right. |
THE
MODEL TO BE BUILT SOPWITH 7F.1 'SNIPE' E8050
|
Sopwith 7F.1 'Snipe' E8050 flown by Captain Elwyn Roy King, flight leader, 4th Squadron, Australian Flying Corps (previously, prior to January 1918, designated as RAF No. 71 Squadron). Captain King was Australia's second highest scoring ace with 26 confirmed aerial victories but more importantly, the highest scoring 'Snipe' ace of the British Empire and Commonwealth with seven in E8050. The white vertical bar forward of the fuselage roundel is the squadron's marking and the white 'U' aft of the fuselage roundel is King's code letter which is also repeated on the right-hand side of the top wing and probably appears on the underside of the bottom wing. Both images are courtesy of the Wikipedia article on "Captain Elwyn Roy King". |
This image is the artwork of Arvo Lennart Verkamer taken from Windsock Worldwide, Vol. 29, No. 2, Albatros Productions, 2013. |
CONSTRUCTION PHOTO No. 1
|
GETTING STARTED - COCKPIT INTERIOR:
Here
is an 'exploded' view of the major parts that make up the
cockpit interior. Not shown are 'gadgets', 'widgets',
and 'goodies' that will make up the finished product.
I would like to thank Wingnut Wings who offer their
publication of the Sopwith Snipe Early' construction
booklet which served as a guide. The side frames, seat, control stick, and rudder bar are metal; the rest are plastic. I started by dividing the fuselage side walls into three painted sections as shown based on the Wingnut Wings illustrations. The rear portion is doped linen simulated with Vallejo VC0847 Dark Sand. The center section is painted as wood paneling using Vallejo VC0856 as the base then other colors and colored pencils to roughly simulate wood grain (not much of this will be seen). The forward portion is painted with a brush dipped a patch of Tamiya's Gloss Aluminum. The side frames have lengths of .005 monofilament thread glued to unseen backside to represent internal bracing wires. The wicker seat had a pair of the kit's metal seat belts glued in place. The wicker portion was painted in Vallej0 VC00912 Tan Yellow though VC0819 Iraqi Sand might be a better, lighter choice. |
CONSTRUCTION PHOTO No.
2
|
MY STUBBY LITTLE FRIEND: After installing all of the internal cockpit parts, painting them, and even adding internal bracing wires, it was time to glue the fuselage halves together. After thoroughly drying, I attached the top decking which included installation of the Vickers machine guns and instrument panel. |
CONSTRUCTION PHOTO No.3
|
WINGS AND TAIL: The tail unit went on next. First to be glued was the one-piece horizontal stabilizer/elevator. I let these dry over night. The lower win halves were somewhat of a problem. The attachment points were barely visible in the fuselage casting. The attachment stubs in the wings were quite small. I cut these off. I then placed the wings upside down and aligned the fuselage attachment points where the stubs had been located and marked both with a dot of pencil for both wings. Next, I drilled out the holes, eight of them: two for each wing and two corresponding ones for the fuselage. I inserted brass rods and made a test fit. It's one of those rare moments when everything connected perfectly. On the underside, I ran a small bead of gap-filling super glue and it was done. |
CONSTRUCTION PHOTO No.4
|
LANDING GEAR: The landing gear spreader was heavily modified. I cut off all of the portions representing the axle and replaced it with a sturdy brass rod. The wheels were drilled out to take the slightly large diameter. The attachment holes in the fuselage were drilled out and the assembled landing gear was test fitted. It was another one of those moments where everything fit perfectly. I would have like longer pins cast onto the end of each strut. |
CONSTRUCTION PHOTO No.
5
|
ROUGH COAT OF PAINT:
This is the point in the building process where I expected
trouble. I spent an inordinate amount of time
researching 'Snipe' colors and discovered that most if not
all were finished in that mysterious shade of PC-12. I did not get into the who and when aspects of PC-12 because there doesn't seem to be a consensus on the exact shade or how and when it was mandated to replace the ever-popular British PC-10. So, I decided to take the word of the experts but ran into the problem of exactly what shade of 'brown drab' is PC-12! I reviewed several of our modern day hobby paint manufacturers and compared a few samples but not all that are available. I used Wingnut Wings' color chart from the illustrated manual for the early Snipe and compared their three recommended paints for PC-12: Misterkit, Tamiya, and Humbrol. My pre-conceived notion that PC-12 was a slightly 'browner' shade than PC-10 was dashed. Apparently, PC-12 was really brown and really dark when compared to the all-time favorite green olive drab! My stock of Misterkit as suffered over time and my PC-12 dried out. Being a brush 'artist' and not a 'spray' artist, I sampled the recommended Tamiya shade and did not like how it covered with a brush and the fact that it tended to dry too quickly bothered me. So, I was down to Humbrol which is the brand I originally grew up with way back in the 1970s. As it turned out, the first coat with a broad brush was more than acceptable. I always expect to do two coats and, as the photo above shows, the first coat looked pretty good and flowed off the brush nicely. Yes, it's darker than I would expect but I'm sticking to it. Weathering the overall finish at the end will lighten it up somewhat. We'll see. |
CONSTRUCTION PHOTO No.6
|
CABANE STRUTS: The four cabane struts were scratch-built with brass rod and tube. The front strut rods were individually cut to length. The top wing was set on these two struts and the correct position and lengths were fitted and trimmed several times by eye-balling from the side and comparing the gap between the fuselage and top wing against the Windsock Datafile drawing. I did the same for the rear strut rods. This took quite a while but the kit's flimsy strut material was not top my liking. |
CONSTRUCTION PHOTO No.7
|
COLORS ARE NOW DECIDED:
I was not happy with my Humbrol experiment. I used
these Humbrol colors as recommended in the Wingnut Wings
instruction manual for their 1:32 scale Early Snipe: Humbrol 98 Chocolate Brown for PC-12 topside fabric Humbrol 121 Pale Stone for the underside fabric Humbrol 145 Medium Grey 'battleship grey' forward metal panels The finish of all Humbrol colors was just too dark for me. I reverted to Vallejo colors expecting that I would have to mix my own paints. I used paint chips I made from Misterkit colors before most of them dried up. All of their shades were to my liking and I endeavored to match them. In the end, I came up with my version of PC-12 which consists of these Vallejo colors: Vallejo VC0872 Chocolate Brown, 2/5 Vallejo VC0887 Brown Violet 2/5 Vallejo VC0990 Light Grey 1/5 For the underside I used Vallejo VC0847 Dark Sand straight out of the bottle. For the forward metal decking and landing gear as my 'battleship gray' I used Vallejo VC0905 Pale Blue Grey. Note that the cabane struts (and future wing struts) are Vallejo VC0856 Ochre Brown. |
CONSTRUCTION PHOTO No.8
|
ONE MORE NOTE ABOUT PAINTING: In this view, the Vallejo PC-12 mix is clearly shown. To my eye, it is 1) a bit lighter because of the addition of Vallejo VC0990 Light Grey and. 2) a bit towards olive brown with the addition of Vallejo VC0887 Brown Violet. |
CONSTRUCTION PHOTO No.9
|
DETAILS:
Before gluing the top wing on, I finished up details around
the cockpit and completed all the rigging on the tail. The tail unit requires elevator and rudder 'horns' for the control wires (rigging). These were taken from the Eduard PE sheet. Holes were drilled out and each 'horn' was glued in place: one upper for each elevator, one underside for each elevator, and one on each side of the rudder. Holes were drilled out where the control wires pass into the fuselage. I used .005 monofilament thread and glued each strand into the fuselage holes. After drying, I passed each line through its corresponding 'horn', clipped it for weight, applied glue to 'horn' and thread, and allowed the rigging to dangle so as to maintain a taut line. Before continuing, I painted the rudder stripes blue forward (Vallejo VC0930 Dark Blue), white middle (Andrea ANCX01 White), and red trailing (Vallejo VC0947 Dark Vermillion). To continue with the tail unit rigging: The two rudder control lines were done next in the same manner as for the elevators. After all of these lines were dry, I snipped them off. The British typically used a semi-gloss black paint on metal parts. The last rigging to do on the tail was the two stabilizing wires that pass through the fin, the horizontal stabilizers and into the bottom outside edge of the fuselage. The lead wire is thicker and I used .008 thermally bonded bead weaving thread but .005 MFT for the rear wire. Up front I made a gun sight from brass tube, wrapped it with thin lead sheet in two places to 'beef it up', put a short piece of plastic scrap underneath as support, passed it through a hole in the clear plastic windscreen and glued it to the top deck. I painted it with a black/metallic steel mix and touched off each end with a bit of brass paint. On the sides of fuselage up front are various apertures (carburetor intakes, expended ammo chutes, pilot's access steps all of which were painted with that black/metallic steel mix. Note the drilled out holes in the lower wing the larger of which are for the struts and smaller for the rigging wires (.005 MFT). Note that rigging wires from the top wing (not shown) will pass through these holes, be clipped, and glued. I couldn't do the same for the rigging wires that will be attached to the fuselage so I used Eduard PE parts to which I can attached and glue the rigging wires. You can see three of them just above the port wing root. |
CONSTRUCTION PHOTO No.10
|
DECALS: The first attempt to use the kit's aged decals was as suspected, a disaster. These decals were flimsy and easily torn even during the gentlest of applications. I 'robbed' my Eduard 'Camel' kit to get the roundels, the fuselage one shown in the photo. The white vertical squadron symbol and the white background for the serial number were cut from stock white decal paper. The white 'U' was laser printed in pale grey (can't do white printing) and then over-painted in matte white. The black 'E8050' was also laser printed. The rudder stripes were hand-painted using Vallejo VC0963 Medium Blue, Vallejo VC0950 White, and Vallejo VC0909 Vermillion. The roundel blue was over-painted with the Medium Blue to match. The model was then over-sprayed with satin polyurethane. |
CONSTRUCTION PHOTO No.11
|
RIGGING: The only 'eyelets' used in rigging this model were attached directly to the fuselage because all of the other rigging 'wires' were passed through the lower wing via pre-drilled holes. Each line in this manner was glued in place, allowed to dry, and cut-off from underneath. When all of the lines were installed, the underside holes were filled in with putty, sanded, and given one coat of paint. You can see the places patched up in this view. |
FINISHED PHOTO No.12
|
FINAL DETAILS
DECALS:
The underside of the lower wing and topside of the upper
wing were given one more coat of paint and then a coat of
polyurethane in preparation for the application of decals.
The kit's decals were not suitable and replaced by a set of
wing roundels for my Sopwith F.1 'Camel' kit. These
roundels were split to accommodate the ailerons as seen in
this photo. The letter 'U' was printed off my laser
printer in pale gray, just enough to see and hand paint.
The upper wing 'U' was painted white and the underside 'U'
black. Before applying another coat of polyurethane to 'seal' the decals, I touched up wing struts, tail skid, and applied Eduard 'horns' for the elevators, top and bottom. This view obstructs the aileron horns and wires but are clearly visible in photos 16 and 17 below. The model was over-sprayed top and bottom with polyurethane. |
FINISHED PHOTO No.13
|
FINISHED PHOTO No.14
|
FINISHED PHOTO No.15
|
FINISHED PHOTO No.16
|
FINISHED PHOTO No.17
|
COLOR TABLE
Tamiya AS-12 Gloss Aluminum | Cowling and fire wall |
Vallejo VC0824 Orange Ochre | Interior wood framework and formers |
Vallejo PC-12 Mix 1 | Fuselage and top surfaces |
Vallejo VC0847 Dark Sand | Cockpit fabric interior and undersides |
Vallejo VC0856 Ochre Brown | Visible cockpit wood paneling and struts |
Vallejo VC0995 German Grey | Rotary engine wash |
Vallejo VC0905 Pale Blue Grey 2 | Exterior metal panels and landing gear |
Model Master 1778 Chrome Silver | Rotary Engine |
Vallejo VC0963 Medium Blue | Roundel Blue |
Vallejo VC0909 Vermillion | Roundel Red |
1 Vallejo VC0872 Chocolate Brown 2/5, VC0887 Brown Violet 2/5, VC0990 Light Grey 1/5 |
|
2 Actually a slightly bluish grey for exterior 'Battleship Grey' metal panels |